Monday, March 18, 2013

Under the Tuscan Rain

The Arno River approaching the top of its banks as it passes through Pisa

Since we arrived in Pisa last week, more than once we have heard the phrase: Povera ItaliaPoor Italy.  The economic crisis is worsening and young people are returning home to mamma in droves because they can't find jobs. In the recent national election, no one party received a clear majority. The various factions could cooperate and form a government - on the order of Republicans and Democrats in United States coming together for the good of the country. That tactic hasn't worked so well in America in the last few years and cooperation is, apparently, even more unlikely in Italy. So it is probable that there will be new elections in the next couple of months. On top of that, the highly-respected president of the Republic, Giorgio Napolitano, has announced that at age 87, he will step down when his term ends on May 15.  Even the Pope has turned in his red shoes and resigned. And then there is the rain - weeks of it that has flooded roads, turned the fields into lakes and filled the rivers to overflowing.  

Nonetheless, the Italians are still displaying their customary friendliness. And now there is a new pope, Francesco, so for a few days at least, the politicians and the weather were banished to the back pages of the newspapers. 

As has become our custom, we had dinner our first night at nearby Giorgio's Pizzeria. As we entered, Giorgio himself rushed from behind the counter to embrace us. The next day, my friend Roberta drove me to the supermarket, to stock up on wine and olive oil and cheese and pasta and all those other wonderful Italian products. Beautiful, fresh octopus was on sale so we each bought one. 

On the way home, we decided that it would be a great idea to invite some friends for dinner and have a Saturday-night, Italian-American octopus cook-off. By the end of the meal, there was not a scrape of octopus left so the competition was declared a tie! (My recipe is below; if you can't get octopus where you live, the same recipe works equally well for squid.)

On Sunday, there was the possibility of no rain, so when another friend invited us to drive with her to the mountains of Liguria, we said yes. As we approached the mountains -  invisible in a mass of dark clouds - rain began to pelt the windshield and hiking no longer seemed like a good idea. Fortunately, in Italy, a museum is never far away so we drove into the town of LaSpezia. There, we spent two hours at the Museo Amedeo Lia, a little-known, but wonderful museum housed in a former 17th-century church and convent. 

When I went out to buy bread this morning at our favorite bakery, Panetteria Tolemei on the via San Francesco, it was still raining. Traditional Tuscan bread, known as pane sciocco, is made without salt. Some say it is because centuries ago, the government levied a tax on salt. The locals say it's because their saltless bread is especially suited to the strong flavors of the Tuscan cuisine. Even Dante, apparently, loved saltless bread because he laments its absence in his canto in Paradiso that talks about the pain of exile:

You shall leave everything you love most;
this is the arrow that the bow of exile shoots
first.  You are to know the bitter taste of
others' bread, how salty it is....
We, however, have not yet learned to appreciate this Tuscan speciality and prefer the salted pane brutto di Pontedero, which we buy every day at Tolemei. Its name translates to "ugly bread," but it's got a wonderful crispy crust and a nice, open crumb that is perfect for soaking up sauces and just enough salt to make it tasty. 

JR has been picking up the bread each morning, so this was the first time I went into the shop this year. "Signora, welcome back to Pisa," said the baker. "You look younger every year." I graciously thanked him, but added: "I don't know about that.  In fact, I was just looking in the mirror this morning and thinking how old I look." "Signora," he said with a smile, "the mirror was wrong." 

Ah, these Italians, they can make the sun shine even on a rainy day.

For more photos, click here.


Octopus in a tomato/wine sauce

Octopus, cooked as below
1 medium onion  or comparable amount of shallots chopped
two to three tomatoes chopped or one medium can Italian chopped tomatoes
2-3 tablespoons flour
salt and pepper
garlic crushed
glass of white wine
chopped boiled potatoes (optional)

Buy a cleaned octopus, wash in cold water.  Leaving just the water that clings to the octopus, put it in a saucepan over very low heat.  Cover and let simmer for about 30 minutes or until almost tender.  When octopus is cooked, allow it to cool somewhat and then cut into pieces (bigger than bite size since the octopus will shrink when cooked in the sauce.) Preserve the liquid from the cooked octopus. This will be added to the sauce below.  

While octopus is cooking, saute onion or shallots - add flour, tomatoes, salt and pepper, crushed garlic, dash of cognac and a glass of white wine. Bring to a boil, stirring. Lower heat, cover and simmer until sauce is a good consistency and some of the alcohol has cooked off.  Add the chopped octopus (and cooked potatoes if desired) with any liquid it has produced and cook in the sauce until tender - about 15 minutes.  

Without the potatoes added, the octopus can also be used as a sauce over pasta or served over rice.


  1. It doesn't matter what the weather, you are in italia with fine food, wine and company. Dan

  2. Liked your blog--your endings are always great! On age, one guy said: "I will never be old. Old is always ten years older than I am."

  3. Wonderful writing!

  4. Great river picture. I have always wondered if I'd like octopus. Does it give any sort of worthwhile distinctive flavor-oomph, when in a tomato sauce over pasta than, say, shrimp or scallops? Are they pleasantly chewy? I've always eschewed them, instead. J.W.

    1. Yes, octopus does have a distinctive flavor. However, it is true that in the tomato sauce, it is less obvious. However, no less so than shrimp or scallops. Each has its own flavor, some of which gets imparted to the tomato sauce. My friend made hers more simply and I think more of the taste of the octopus stayed. After the first slow cook in the pan, she cut it up and then sauteed it slightly with cooked broccoli and potatoes, seasoned with salt and olive oil and served warm, not hot. One of the other guests thought that perhaps the broccoli was too strong a taste for the octopus, but I liked it very much. The octopus is a bit chewy, but if cooked correctly, it should be mostly tender. I think octopus is like squid, which either has to be cooked a short time or a very long time if you want it to be tender. If you eat squid and it's tough, it usually means it was incorrectly cooked. I think octopus is great and you should definitely try it if you get the chance.

  5. You've just made me even more excited about my trip to Tuscany this Fall! I can't wait to explore its cultural elements and historical landmarks. I have to make sure I visit the Museo Amedeo Lia when I go as well! I definitely need to get on the ball and look for Villas for Rent in Tuscany, after all it won't be much fun not having a place to live while I'm there!


Thanks for your comments.